Alishan is so much more than tea fields, though I don’t forgive you for chalking it up to them. Certainly, the first time I made the journey up the mountain from Chiayi, all I wanted to do was sit down with a steaming cup of oolong.
(And trespass through a stranger’s tea fields to get the ultimate central Taiwan selfie. More on that—and how you, too, can do it—in a second, however.)
My goal with this Alishan itinerary is not necessarily to pressure you into exploring this underrated destination beyond its most singular landscape. Though, having first shirked the rest of the scenic area and then dug deep into all of it myself, I can that I highly recommend following in my footsteps.
How to Get to Alishan
The bad news? It’s a very long journey from Taipei to Alishan, one you almost certainly can’t make on a day trip (more on that in a second). The good news? If you are willing to start your journey from Chiayi (or, absent than, from Tainan or even Kaohsiung) the travel time becomes much less of an issue. That’s because regular buses from Chiayi Station take just over an hour en route. Easy peasy!
Of course, I personally prefer driving to and from Alishan, even if the roads leading to and through the recreation area are some of the narrowest and most winding in Taiwan. Frankly, you just need to pay close attention as you drive—and, if you can, rent a relatively compact car. One notable exception to this is if you visit during the cherry blossom festival between early March and early April, during which most private cars are banned.
What to Do at Alishan
Walk the tea trails of Shizhao
I know, based on my Google data, that most of you are here because you want to visit an Alishan tea farm. And that’s fair: This is the reason I initially visited Alishan as well. To do this, you’ll want to set your GPS for the town of Shizhao, and in particular the Sunset Trail just up the hill from it. It’s from the bottom of this trail that you can enjoy the most iconic view of the farms, which frame Shibao Wufeng Temple.
(And have a cup—or 10—as well)
Another reason to spend some time in Shizhao? It’s the best place to attend an Alishan tea ceremony, which—fair warning—is not as elaborate as it sounds, and at least aesthetically is not as elaborate as what you might find in Japan. You can go into basically any tea shop and ask to drink tea, and they will perform a ritual that’s nonetheless captivating, and sees them brew the loose leaf tea over and over again in a way that’s almost mesmerizing.
Eat your way along Fengqihu Old Street
Like nearby Sun Moon Lake, Alishan is home to many aboriginal people, something that comes through in a lot of its cuisine. This is especially noticeable in dishes like five-spice grilled partridge and daylily pork soup, although you’ll find less…extra fare along Fengqihu Old Street as well. These include brown sugar rice cake and donuts dusted with maple-flavored powder sugar. I mean, how can you go wrong?
Ride the Alishan Forest Railway
Beyond the prospect of visiting an Alishan tea plantation, it’s also possible to ride an older model train through ancient trees at the main Alishan Forest Recreation Area. While the most popular journey along the Alishan Forest Railway is riding it up to the Zhushan viewpoint before the crack of dawn to watch sunset, I promise you that it’s an amazing experience no matter what time you visit.
Come in spring for cherry blossoms
I’ll be frank: Taiwan’s cherry blossoms don’t hold a candle to Japan’s—and not just because most of the sakura in Taiwan are actually yamazakura, or other species besides the iconic somei yoshino. Still, I do recommend walking along the aptly-named Alishan Sakura Trail if you happen to visit in March or April. It’s the best place in Taiwan to enjoy hanami!
Should You Stay Overnight at Alishan?
I recently stayed overnight in Alishan for the first time—and in general, I recommend it. It was nice to be able to take my time exploring the National Forest, and although the weather didn’t cooperate (neither for sunset in the evening, nor sunrise the next morning), it was nice to know that I could’ve enjoyed or or both of these spectacles if I had. I still want to return someday and ride the Alishan Forest Railway at dawn!
On the other hand, if you do decide to sleep at Alishan instead of just taking an Alishan tea tour, take one important piece of advice. Rather than booking one of the Alishan properties on Booking.com (most of which, frankly, are terrible), go on Google Maps and find one of of the guest houses near the Tea Trail or Sakura Trail—which one is not important; they all have great views. Book with them directly, as most of these properties don’t work with online travel agencies.
Other FAQ About Your Alishan Tea Farm Itinerary
How many days do you need in Alishan?
Realistically, you can see everything in Alishan with a night spent there: Arrive a bit before check-in to do some daytime sightseeing, then watch sunset and sleep; rise the next morning for sunrise from Zhushan, then sightsee in the morning before heading out. Giving yourself 2-3 days could be beneficial, however, especially if watching sunrise or sunset (which can be difficult, due to Alishan’s temperamental weather) is a priority.
Can you visit Alishan without a car?
You can visit Alishan without a car—and, during the annual cherry blossom festival, you must. However, I generally believe that having a car will make your life much easier as you explore Alishan’s tea farms, particularly if you have a smaller vehicle that can easily navigate the twists and turns of the road up here.
Is Alishan worth visiting?
Alishan is absolutely worth visiting—and not just because of the tea plantations of Shizhao, as incredible as they are. Rather, I like to experience Alishan as a “whole” destination, from the Fengqihu Old Street, to the Alishan Forest Railway and Recreation area. You can even tack on a visit to Sun Moon Lake or a climb up nearby Yushan, Taiwan’s tallest peak.
The Bottom Line
Look, you can use my Alishan itinerary if you simply want to see the mountain’s beautiful tea plantations—I won’t complain if you do. With this being said, I’ve found incredible fulfillment in digging more deeply into other parts of the scenic area, and hope you’ll do the same. As is the case with Sun Moon Lake, an overnight stay (or two) can greatly increase your enjoyment of your Alishan trip, though this is of course not necessary, especially not if you plan to base yourself in Chiayi, Tainan or even Kaohsiung. Need personalized help incorporating Alishan into your next Taiwan trip? Commission a custom Taiwan itinerary today!
