In Taiwan perhaps more than in larger countries, size really tends not to be determinative. Just like the country itself, many “small” destinations and experience in Taiwan punch above their weight.
For example, you would assume that the relatively large Penghu archipelago would be more interesting to travelers than tiny Xiaoliuqiu island. This would seem especially obvious if you’d seem either or both of them from the air: Penghu looks like a tropical paradise; Xiaoliuqiu is barely perceptible.
In reality, as is the case so often in Taiwan (and when traveling in general), the Xiaoliuqiu vs Penghu debate isn’t so simply settled. Continue reading to see what I mean.
Xiaoliuqiu vs. Penghu: A Fair Fight?
As I foreshadowed in the introduction to this article, choosing between Xiaoliuqiu or Penghu shouldn’t be much of a choice. Penghu, after all, is huge—if you don’t like what there is on one of its islands, you can simply visit another. Moreover, as a bonafide cultural destination, which is mentioned in Chinese literature going back centuries, Penghu isn’t just dependent on its beaches or scenery. It has gravitas.
With this being said, Xiaoliuqiu has a lot of unexpected appeal. For me, as someone who values efficiency when traveling, I like that I can explore the entire place in a day or two. I also find that Xiaoliuqiu is a more “concentrated” destination: Maybe less to do in the aggregate, but compressed into a much smaller container, which makes it both easier to enjoy, and also leaves less room for “filler.” So the fight here is much fairer than you’d think.
Ways to Compare Xiaoliuqiu with Penghu
Getting there and around
Penghu is the easier to reach of these two tropical destinations; several flights per day travel from Taipei Songshan (TSA) to Penghu Airport (MZG). To reach Xiaoliuqiu, by contrast, you need to take a high-speed train from Taipei Main Station to Zuoying, get a bus from there to Donggang port and a high-speed ferry to Xiaoliuqiu’s Baisha port. In Penghu, you need a car to get around; an e-bike is sufficient in Xiaoliuqiu.
Beaches
Unless you literally have no frame of reference outside of Taiwan, the beaches in both Xiaoliuqiu and Penghu will disappoint you. However, the attractions around the beaches are interesting in both cases. On Xiaoliuqiu, the scenery around Vase Rock is gorgeous; Lobster Cave (in spite of neither being home to lobsters nor being a cave) is a surefire spot to see sea turtles. In Penghu, I find that natural sites like the Double Heart of Stacked Stones are mostly a novelty, to be honest.
Cuisine and culture
Not surprisingly, you can eat fresh seafood pretty easily on both of these islands, though I find that because of Penghu’s size and relative development, there tend to be more options. Culture-wise, the Zhongyang Old Street on Penghu’s Magong island is superior to anything you’ll find in Xiaoliuqiu, although there is plenty of ostensibly “old” charm to be held on the latter.
Size and scope
Obviously, when choosing between Penghu or Xiaoliuqiu on this front, Penghu is simply a lot larger. Penghu actually has five inhabited islands, with Baisha and Xiyu being popular ones to visit besides the “main” island of Magong. It’ll take you several days to explore, if you want to come close to doing so comprehensively. For Xiaoliuqiu, on the other hand, a full day (and night) is all you need, even if you’re using an e-bike to get around.
Accommodation
In general, I’d say that while Penghu isn’t home to any world-class hotels, you will simply have more choice here. Most of the best places are in Magong, with Fullon Poshtel and Ocean View Hall B&B being my two current favorites. In Xiaoliuqiu, the best place I’ve ever stayed is Lazy House, which is totally fine but also totally unremarkable; some places on this island are disappointing or even bad.
Other Outlying Islands in Taiwan
I’m a big proponent of exploring offshore Taiwan, even if you haven’t seen “everywhere” on the main island. Here’s a short primer on how to get started:
- The “easiest” islands to visit, besides Penghu and Xiaoliuqiu, are the two island groups to Taiwan’s northwest, Matsu and Kinmen. These are geographically closer to Xiamen, China than they are to Taipei.
- On the opposite side of Taiwan (i.e. off the coast of Taitung County) lies Lanyu, aka Orchid Island. This is perhaps the “wildest” of Taiwan’s outlying islands—it feels like the ends of the earth.
- In Taitung but not feeling up for a truly out-of-this-world adventure? Instead choose the closer and “easier” Lyudao, aka Green Island. I sometimes refer to this as “Taiwan in miniature,” because it’s so eclectic (and also so beautiful).
TIP: Once you’ve finished the Penghu vs Xiaoliuqiu debate, check out my main guide to Taiwan’s outlying islands to delve deeper into the specifics of planning a trip.
Other FAQ About Penghu and Xiaoliuqiu
Which is better, Xiaoliuqiu or Penghu?
Although Penghu is a larger destination with more eclectic options for exploration, I ultimately prefer Xiaoliuqiu. I find that its smaller size makes it easier to explore more completely, and that the range of things to do there simply lines up better with my interests as a traveler than Penghu does.
How to get from Xiaoliuqiu to Penghu?
Xiaoliuqiu and Penghu aren’t far apart as the crow flies, but traveling between them is cumbersome. First, travel by high-speed ferry from Xiaoliuqiu’s Baisha Port to Donggang, and get a bus from there to Kaohsiung. You can then take a boat from Kaohsiung Harbor to Penghu’s Magong Island.
What are some islands I can visit from Kaohsiung?
The easiest “island” to visit from Kaohsiung is an urbanized one just offshore, i.e. Cijin, which is connected via a five-minute ferry crossing from Hamasen Port. Beyond this, you can take a bus to Donggang and a high-speed ferry from there to Xiaoliuqiu, or take the four-hour slow ferry from Kaohsiung Harbor to Magong Island in the Penghu archipelago.
The Bottom Line
Comparing Xiaoliuqiu vs Penghu might surprise you. Penghu is a sprawling archipelago, one that was so beautiful from the plane that I booked a trip there without doing a great deal of subsequent research. It’s enjoyable, in a way, but is also disappointing compared to what its size and superficial beauty suggests. Xiaoliuqiu, by contrast, punches far above its weight. Even better, because it’s so small, you can explore it completely in just a day or two, which means that even if you don’t love it as much as I do, you won’t waste much time figuring that out. Need personalized help planning your Taiwan trip? Commission a custom Taiwan itinerary today!
