I almost didn’t make it to Lanyu.
When my flight from Taitung was canceled, as I feared it might be, I hesitated. Did I get in a cab with two Taiwanese strangers in hopes of catching a ferry leaving just 30 minutes in the future—a famously rough ferry, no less—or continue kicking the Lanyu can down the proverbial road of my travels through Taiwan’s outlying islands?
Obviously, I chose the former, hence my being able to create a Lanyu Orchid Island Taiwan itinerary. But I wasn’t sure I’d made the right decision until I got off the boat.
Why Lanyu Knocked My Socks Off
And not even then, at least not immediately. It was a one-two punch, disembarking that ferry, and not in my favor. Not only was my rental car so dilapidated I feared it might not run; a road closure less than a mile from my accommodation meant I had to drive literally around the entire island to reach it, turning what should’ve been a five-minute journey into a 50-minute one.
This has an unintended positive consequence, of course: I was able to see virtually every place listed in every Lanyu travel guide within an hour of my arrival on the island. Which not only resulted in me falling immediately and deeply in love with Orchid Island, but made exploring over the subsequent two days easy. I knew, almost innately, where everything was located, and in which sequence to experience it.
My Favorite Things to Do on Taiwan’s Orchid Island
Drive around the entire island
It is a given that you’ll circumnavigate Lanyu—there’s only one cross-island road, and is passes over terrain that’s difficult to drive, to say the least. Still, as I learned first-hand, driving all the way around Lanyu is a rush of colors, textures and vibes, from the taratara canoes laid out at Iranmeylek Bay in the east, to the goats defying death on the cliffs of Hutoupo rock in the west.
Savor the views
Everywhere in this Lanyu itinerary is incredibly scenic, from the beaches, to the bays, to the towering emerald interior. In particular, I felt a thrill seeing the colorful facades of Yeyin town coming around the bay from Iranmeylek, and then looking back toward Warship Rock from there. I also found the Green Green Grassland (with views of Xiaolanyu, aka Little Lanyu) to be much more striking than its silly name suggested it would be.
(And canoes)
Twice-aforementioned Iranmeylek isn’t the only place on Lanyu where you can find canoes, though it is the place where the taratara can most reliably be found. Iraralay, which is just around the bend heading north from Iranmeylek although has some taratara, albeit ones splayed out on a smaller beach. You’ll find the boats in other places throughout the island too—just keep an eye out.
Eat flying fish
Ostensibly, there’s plenty of great food within every Orchid Island itinerary, though there are some caveats. Namely, many seafood restaurants here (as is the case throughout the rest of Taiwan) are oriented toward group dining, making them impractical for solo diners or even couple. Thankfully, many restaurants (like this one!) serve individual portions of the local specialty Fēiyú, aka flying fish.
Lean into the chaos
I arrived in Lanyu—at the end of the earth, so far as I could tell—in the middle of weather that felt almost apocalyptic. It made me want to turn around—or, if I couldn’t head back, to hide in my homestay. In fact, the turbulent conditions made the experience all the more otherworldly. Weather is even less of a concern if you scuba dive (which is famous in Lanyu, though I didn’t partake in it).
How to Get to (and Around) Orchid Island
Getting to Orchid Island, you have two options: Flight or ferry from Taitung. Both come with caveats. For the flight, you need to book via the Daily Air website exactly three months before travel. If you wait even a day or two longer, you risk not getting a seat (only four per flight are sold to non-islanders). Ferries can be booked last-minute, but are famously rough. And, notably, depart from Fugang Fishing Harbor, which requires a taxi ride from Taitung.
As far as getting around is concerned, you likewise have a couple of options. According to many an Orchid Island travel guide, your only option is renting a motorbike, which is fine if you have experience riding one. If you don’t—and I don’t—there are a small number of cars on the island, though you’ll likewise need to book these pretty far in advance, ideally once you’ve secured your flights.
Other FAQ About Visiting Taiwan’s Orchid Island
Is Orchid Island worth visiting?
Orchid Island is absolutely worth visiting! It’s the most unique place I’ve ever been in Taiwan, and maybe in Asia—maybe even the world. Although I arrived by ferry, I felt as if I’d awoken shipwrecked on the island’s shores. Being in Lanyu feels like being at the ends of the earth.
How do I get to Orchid Island from Taipei?
To get to Orchid Island from Taipei, you first need to get to Taitung, either via domestic flight (from Songshan Airport) or train. You then need to take either a second domestic flight (on local carrier Daily Air) or a ferry from Fugang Fishing Harbor—which is about 15 minutes from central Taitung by taxi.
Where does Taiwan store its nuclear waste?
Taiwan stores its nuclear waste on Lanyu, aka Orchid Island, which frankly comes as a shock to me. I didn’t notice any obvious nuclear storage receptacles on the island when I visited. I’m almost glad I didn’t know about this beforehand, as it might’ve made me paranoid while traveling.
The Bottom Line
I hope my Lanyu Orchid Island Taiwan itinerary has proven helpful and inspiring. Most importantly, I hope it’s gotten you off any fence you might’ve been sitting on when it comes to going: Orchid Island is absolutely worth visiting, in spite of all the trouble required to get there, maybe even because of it. While it’s most enjoyable in combination with a trip to Lyudao, aka Green Island, Orchid Island is impressive all on its own: Lanyu feels the ends of the earth—or, at least, the end of Taiwan. Want personalized help planning your trip to Taiwan’s outlying islands? Consider commissioning a custom Taiwan itinerary!
