My first few visits to Shifen were deceptive. It was during covid-19, and although Taiwan (at least initially) didn’t go quite as crazy with restrictions as the rest of Asia, the place felt like a ghost town.
I felt satisfied with my time there, to be sure, and strangely lacking in curiosity in how the lao jie might be during more “normal” times. In fact, had my 2026 visit to the closing chapter of the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival not taken place, I may never have returned to Shifen.
But visit the festival I did, and so I can now present to you a list of things to do in Shifen that’s actually in line with what you might experience. I hope you’ll continue reading.
How to Get to Shifen from Taipei
If you have your own vehicle, getting from Taipei to Shifen is a very straightforward affair. Depending on traffic, in fact, it could take you less than an hour. If you’re coming by public transport, meanwhile, you have two options: A direct bus, which takes around two hours one-way; and a pair of trains, which will involve any train from Taipei to Ruifang, and then a slow, local Pingxi Line train from Ruifang to Shifen Station.
I personally prefer coming by car, for a few reasons. For one, it’s much easier to make a day (or days) or exploring northeastern Taiwan with your own set of wheels, whether you combine your trip to Shifen with one to Jiufen, or stop en route in the tea-producing town of Pinglin. Secondly, while transferring trains in Ruifang is obviously not the end of the world, it adds a layer of complication that simply isn’t necessary if you self-drive.
What to Do in Shifen
Eat your way along the Old Street
It won’t come as a shock for you to learn that the focal point of your time in Shifen should be the Shifen Old Street. Likewise, you probably aren’t surprised to hear that this is a foodie paradise. While my favorite is the sweet-but-spicy hūa shēng jǔan bīng cí líng (aka peanut ice cream roll with cilantro), a variety of more savory treats are available, including grilled dove and wild boat sausage.
To release a lantern, or not?
Another popular part of any Shifen itinerary? Releasing a lantern over the railway tracks. Popular, but not essential. In fact, an increasing number of travelers opt against this for environmental reasons, and instead watch others do it, which is particularly thrilling when they need to dodge arriving or departing trains in order to do so. There are also plenty of lantern-related merchandise items you can buy to get in on the fun.
Hike to Shifen Waterfall
The first time I came to Shifen, it was less for the old street and more for Shifen Waterfall. It’s still a delight (the waterfall, this is), though as you can imagine, it’s a lot more crowded now than it was in 2020. Likewise, it could’ve just been because the generally rainy weather, but I was shocked by how much…spray there was this time. I couldn’t even get a proper picture without my camera getting soaked!
Come during the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival
If you feel like random people releasing lanterns above the train tracks is an affront to the environment—and fair enough if you do—then you probably won’t consider the closing edition of the annual Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival to be among the must-see Shifen attractions. In my opinion, however, this is the absolute best time to visit Shifen as a photograph, even if the crowding that accompanies of it gives me anxiety just thinking about it.
Continue to Pingxi, Pinglin or Jiufen
Shifen is where many trips outside Taipei begin, but they rarely end there. If you don’t want to take the most typical next step (i.e. to Jiufen, the most famous “old street” in Taiwan), you could instead head westward to Pingxi (whether or not for the opening edition of the aforementioned lantern festival) or to Pinglin, the closest tea-producing town in the vicinity of Taipei.
Should You Stay Overnight in Shifen?
If you do like me and visit Shifen during the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival, then I’d absolutely suggest staying overnight. Although there are several buses back to Taipei the same night, it’s an amazing relief to be able to be able to walk a few minutes and be “home.” In my case, because I booked so late, this ended up being the…unique Herwan Resort, though other options are available if you’re more proactive.
If you aren’t coming during a busy period, then I’d probably suggest shirking Shifen hotels (most of which aren’t impressive anyway) and instead either staying in Taipei (but visiting Shifen on a day trip) or staying in Jiufen. This is obviously a more practical option if you plan on having your own car, though it isn’t especially difficult to travel between Jiufen and Shifen via bus (even if doing so sometimes requires transferring in Ruifang).
Other FAQ About Visiting Shifen
How long should I spend in Shifen?
For most travelers and most times of year, a day trip to Shifen from Taipei is perfectly sufficient. However, if you’re coming during the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival, or plan to combine Shifen with nearby destinations like Pinglin, Pingxi or Jiufen, then it might make sense to entertain the idea of staying overnight.
Which one to go first, Jiufen or Shifen?
Jiufen is more immediately appealing to travelers than Shifen, especially because of its false reputation for having inspired Spirited Away. With this being said, I feel like seeing Shifen before Jiufen would result in appreciating both destinations more, since Jiufen might be superficially “better” than Shifen.
What to do in Shifen Old Street?
While on Shifen Old Street, you can release lanterns above the train tracks, eat local treats such as hua sheng juan bing peanut-cilantro ice cream rolls and make the short trek to Shifen Waterfall. If you come at the end of the Chinese New Year period, you may also be able to attend the closing chapter of the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival.
The Bottom Line
Although most things to do in Shifen are straightforward, this not-as-famous-as-Jiufen lao jie has some tricks up its sleeve. On one hand, the most fascinating time to come here is during the sky lantern festival, in spite of (and maybe because of) how crowded it gets. With this being said, visiting Shifen outside the high season allows you to see a quieter side of it, albeit maybe not as quiet as I saw it in the summer of 2020. Regardless of when you visit and where it fits within your Taiwan trip, I do hope you’ll consider commissioning a custom Taiwan itinerary. It’s the best way to leverage my decade-plus of experience exploring Taiwan, making even first trips feel like ones you’ve spent years planning.
