Taiwan, as I’ve often lamented, really drew the short straw on beaches, considering that it’s an island country. There are definitely good beaches in Taiwan, even a few great ones, but most of them are nothing to write home about.
I bring this up not to criticize or complain, but to set your expectations in advance. When seeking out a tropical escape in Taiwan, it’s best to spread your attention out over multiple aspects of the experience (namely, cuisine, culture and scenery/wildlife), in order to avoid feeling disappointment about the beaches themselves.
Today, I want to dive into the Xiaoliuqiu vs Kenting debate in particular. Depending upon how much research you’ve done already, I think you might be surprised where I come down on this!
Xiaoliuqiu is More Similar to Kenting Than You’d Think
Now, I think what you’re thinking: The decision between Xiaoliuqiu or Kenting isn’t one-for-one. Xiaoliuqiu is a small and self-contained island; Kenting National Park is a sprawling area on the mainland which, while beachy in parts, is both more spread-out than Xiaoliuqiu, as well as more diverse in terms of both biology and topography. Why would it even make sense to compare them?
Well, the first reason is that these destinations are more or less in the same part of Taiwan—and for many travelers, they serve the same purpose, i.e. a tropical escape. Even though they aren’t interchangeable in terms of what they are, they represent similar experiences to visitors. A second important point (which admittedly dovetails with the first) is that Kenting, in spite of being a national park, is a place that many travelers experience in a superficial way.
Ways to Compare Xiaoliuqiu with Kenting
Getting there and around
Reaching both these destinations from Taipei is a pretty long journey. For Xiaoliuqiu, you need to take a high-speed train to Kaohsiung, a bus from there to Donggang port and a high-speed ferry from there to the island. You can also reach Kenting from Kaohsiung: Regular buses leave both Zuoying Station and Kaohsiung Main Station. Getting around in Kenting, a rental car makes your life much easier; in Xiaoliuqiu, an e-bike will suffice.
Beaches
As is the case with Taiwan more broad, both Xiaoliuqiu and Kenting leave a lot to be desired when it comes to beaches. In Kenting, a notable exception is Baishawan beach, which is closer to the city of Hengchun than it is to Kenting Town. On Xiaoliuqiu, the beach near famous Vase Rock is beautiful, although the rocky sand and strong currently make it inhospitable for swimming.
Culture and cuisine
If I’m honest, neither Xiaoliuqiu nor Kenting are cultural bastions, though in Kenting the Kenting Night Market is a great place to get a sense of local culture (and cuisine). As you might imagine, both of these places are awesome for fresh seafood, with warm water lobsters taking the spotlight in Kenting; on Xiaoliuqiu, I generally find the culinary offerings to be much less elaborate.
Size and scope
Comapring Kenting vs Xiaoliuqiu on this front, it’s obviously that Xiaoliuqiu lives up to the first word (小, literally “small”) of its Chinese name. You can go around the entire perimeter of the island, even on an e-bike, in less than an hour. By contrast, while you can see much of what’s worth experiencing in Kenting by staying one night in the park, driving from one side to the other and back will take you a full day with stops.
Accommodation
In both Xiaoliuqiu and Kenting National Park, accommodation leaves a lot to be desired. While there are some proper hotels, you are really looking a stay in a guest house or B&B, whose quality can vary a lot, given that all are locally-owned and operated. So far, my favorites including Lazy House in Xiaoliuqiu and Blue Ocean Hill in Kenting; I may update this section in the future if other favorites emerge.
Other Tropical Destinations in (and off) Taiwan
Taiwan might not have won the beach lottery, but there are certainly plenty of amazing tropical escapes here, both on the main island and just off it:
- If you’re in Taitung and are craving a real adventure, consider flying to Lanyu and/or Lyudao islands. Lanyu in particular really feels like it’s at the ends of the earth!
- A slightly less committal option might be to drive the coast between Taitung and Hualien. Highlights include Taimali Beach and Sanxiantai, aka Bridge of the Three Immortals, but the journey here is the destination.
- Want to visit an offshore island, but one that feels closer to civilization? Fly to Penghu or take a ferry there from Kaohsiung.
- Both the Kinmen and Matsu islands northwest of Taiwan have a certain appeal, particularly if you visit the latter in the spring when the “blue tears” appear.
Other FAQ About Kenting and Xiaoliuqiu
Does Kenting or Xiaoliuqiu have better beaches?
No beach on Xiaoliuqiu compares to the white sand or clear, blue water you find on Baishawan Beach in Kenting National Park. With this being said, nowhere in these two places (or anywhere in Taiwan, if we’re being honest) has truly excellent beaches. Don’t base your decision on which to visit solely or even primarily on beaches!
How to get from Kenting to Xiaoliuqiu?
To start your journey from Kenting to Xiaoliuqiu, travel (whether via bus or your or private car) from wherever you are in the park to Donggang, a port city just south of Kaohsiung. From there, regular high-speed ferries can take you to Xiaoliuqiu in about 15-20 minutes or less one way.
Should I visit both Kenting and Xiaoliuqiu?
I personally think visiting both Kenting and Xiaoliuqiu is a great idea. I love both these destinations for different reasons; they serve different purposes, even though some are complimentary. Plus, they’re close enough to one another that with just a little planning, it’s easy enough to visit both on the same trip.
The Bottom Line
Comparing Xiaoliuqiu vs Kenting isn’t apples-to-apples, but I still think it’s an worthwhile analysis. Xiaoliuqiu’s advantage is that it’s small and self-contained: Even if you don’t love it, you can see it all in a day or two; there isn’t a huge amount of hype that will set unrealistic expectations within you. With Kenting National Park, meanwhile, there’s more of a potential risk: It’s on virtually every “must-visit” list for Taiwan, and almost always without the caveats that are necessary to enjoy it fully. Regardless of where you end up coming down on this debate, I do hope you’ll consider hiring to me plan your trip. I provide a personalized Taiwan itinerary, which will make you feel like you’re “winging it,” even though you aren’t!
