For years, I took the xiao (小, or small) in the name of Xiaoliuqiu island way too literally. In fact, on the many occasions that I punted on adding it to the list of Taiwanese outlying islands I’d visited, I assumed that Xiaoliuqiu and its iconic “Vase Rock” were one and the same.
“Why,” I’d ask myself (but never other people) mockingly, “would someone take a ferry so offshores just to snorkel around a strange natural obelisk?”
Of course, had I voiced this dubious concern to literally any Taiwanese person, he or she would’ve quickly educated me on all the amazing things to do in Xiaoliuqiu, and it wouldn’t have taken me over a decade to see them for myself. But we are where we are—and I’m happy you’re here!s
Where to Stay in Xiaoliuqiu
As is the case in most of Taiwan, and especially outside of its major cities, Xiaoliuqiu hotels leave a lot to be desired. In fact, there really aren’t all that many hotels here at all. Rather, you’ll generally need to choose from various guest houses and B&B establishments. I personally loved staying at Lazy House near the Lobster Cave, though I also originally considered Loju Seaview Homestay, whose questionable ambiance and service belied its high rating.
For optimal convenience, meanwhile, you should stay as close as possible to Baisha Port, though I personally find that area a little busy for my tastes. If you do stay here, I like Mare Cielo. On the flip-side, I do love the southwestern corner of the island for ambiance, even if options for accommodation are limited, with Ryukyu Inn being among the only ones I’d probably choose.
What to Do in Xiaoliuqiu
Rent an e-bike (not a scooter)
Xiaoliuqiu is not a huge island. In fact, it’s the only one of Taiwan’s outlying islands where I didn’t even entertain the idea of renting a car. I did, however, rent an e-bike—I recommend you do this as well. You could technically rent a scooter instead, but to me this is slightly risky; an e-bike works fine. You can get these from virtually all of the shops near Baisha Port, though they will try to talk to you into scooters.
Start at Vase Rock
For me, there was never a question that my Xiaoliuqiu itinerary would begin at Vase Rock, and not just because it happens to be less than five minutes by e-bike (and only around 10 minutes) by foot from the port. On the other hand, while this is a good photo op and will set the tone of your trip nicely, there’s not a whole lot to do here. I’d recommend moving on pretty quickly (though you could try coming by at sunrise the next morning).
Circle the island
Conveniently for those of us on e-bikes, most of Xiaoliuqiu’s attractions are on its periphery, around which a largely flat circular road runs. There are a few highlights here (Lobster Cave, which I’ll reference in a subsequent section; the aptly-named Banyan Tree) but as is the case so often when you’re off Taiwan’s beaten path, it’s at least as much about the journey as it is the destination.
(But don’t neglect the interior)
There are even fewer Xiaoliuqiu attractions criss-crossing the island’s inland, which is part of why I enjoying doing it so much. This gives you an opportunity to peer in on how locals live, even if I also might’ve climbed up on a roof or two to try and get a view of the coast below. There’s also a 7-Eleven basically in the middle of the island, which is practically useful in case you don’t want to go all the way back to the port.
Believe the sea turtle hype
Remember when I wrote earlier about Lobster Cave? Well, it’s neither a cave nor home to many lobsters, at least so far as I could tell. You will, however, find sea turtles there, and likely lots of them. Indeed, turning up there randomly after checking in at my guest house, I literally couldn’t believe how they seemed to be waiting there for me. Xiaoliuqiu talks a good game about its sea turtle conservation efforts—and it seems it’s warranted.
Can You Visit Xiaoliuqiu if You Don’t Snorkel or Dive?
Beyond my misunderstanding of its size and scope, another reasons I held off so long on visiting Xiaoliuqiu is that I don’t snorkel or dive. Well, I don’t like snorkeling because of how poor the visibility of the sea floor near the surface is; I don’t dive because it’s too expensive a habit for me to justify doing often. Plus, the sharp rocks that cover much of the sea bed around Taiwan have always made me wary to participate in either activities here.
The good news is that no matter how many days in Xiaoliuqiu you decide to spend, it is absolutely not necessary to spend any time under the water. As I explained earlier, you’ll be able to see the island’s famous sea turtles from various points on dry land. And while I don’t doubt that some of the underwater views are amazing, a great number of things that make Xiaoliuqiu enjoyable exist completely above the surface.
Other FAQ About Visiting Xiaoliuqiu
Is Xiaoliuqiu worth visiting?
Xiaoliuqiu is worth visiting, even if you don’t snorkel. Beyond the iconic Vase Rock, the island is home to one of Asia’s most visible sea turtle populations which is generally even visible from the surface. Moreover, it’s small enough to explore completely in a day or two, making it an ideal excursion.
How long should I spend in Xiaoliuqiu?
If you rent an e-bike or a scooter and don’t mind having very full days, you can fully explore Xiaoliuqiu in a day or two. By contrast, if you plan to get around the island on foot or normal bicycle, or if you simply want to settle into a slower rhythm, then three or more days might be a better amount of time for you to spend.
Can you walk around Xiaoliuqiu?
Xiaoliuqiu is definitely small enough to walk around, and although its interior is hilly, the coastal ring road is mostly flat enough to traverse on foot. If you do plan to explore the island this way, however, I’d suggest staying no less than two nights.
The Bottom Line
I’m happy to report that things to do in Xiaoliuqiu far exceed Vase Rock, even if it was the first place I visited upon arriving here from Kaohsiung. My trip here was surprisingly emotional, which makes sense: Xiaoliuqiu was the last of Taiwan’s outlying islands I visited, and yet I experienced it in a surprisingly un-jaded way, as I rode my e-bike around its periphery and through its inland hills. Certainly, if you’re on the fence about ticking Xiaoliuqiu off your list, I implore you to make the trip—don’t wait over a decade like I did! You should also consider hiring me to create a Taiwan itinerary for you, which will take whatever adventure you embark on to the next level.
