Sun Moon Lake is a place I never had an interest in visiting back when I first moved to Taiwan. None of my Taiwanese friends spoke highly of it (“we went there as kids with our family,” they’d tell me, “and it’s where our grandparents go now.”). Most seemed bored at the idea of going.
Then, of course, the pandemic happened. And so there was really no reason for me not to go there (let alone other Taiwan destinations I’d missed), since I couldn’t actually leave the island.
I’ve refined this Sun Moon Lake itinerary many times over the course of the past half-decade, and as a result of many subsequent trips. I hope it will help you as you plan yours.
Sun Moon Lake: Day Trip or Overnight Stay?
On one hand, there’s a good argument in favor of taking a Sun Moon Lake day trip. Sun Moon Lake is easy to reach (at least from northern and central Taiwan), particularly if you have your own set of wheels. Moreover, most of what there is to do in Sun Moon Lake—which is to say, biking or driving around the lake—is best done during the daytime. So, why not arrive in the morning and leave before the sun sets?
Ah, but there’s the rub: Sunset over Sun Moon Lake is spectacular. Sunset, too, at least on the off chance that the lake isn’t covered in fog at the end of one day or the beginning of the next. Moreover, because so few tourists stay overnight here (relative to how many come for the day), being at the lake in the late evening or early morning is a tranquil and surprisingly exclusive experience.
What to Do at Sun Moon Lake
Rent a bike (if you don’t have a car)
I’ve never visited Sun Moon Lake without a car. On early visits, it was simply preferable to the bus from Taichung, and on later visits, I’ve combined the lake with other nearby destinations (usually Alishan). Still, there’s an extensive trail network around the lake; while most of it is flat, you can rent an e-bike if you don’t want to have to pedal through the non-flat parts that exist.
Start at Wen Wu Temple—and plan on ending there
Wen Wu Temple, located on the lakes northeastern shore, is deservedly one of the top things to do in Sun Moon Lake. It’s not only a massive and gorgeous sacred site, but also offers an incredible view of the lake. This is delightful during the daytime, when the sun is (hopefully) shining. But it’s also valuable later in the afternoon and evening—hold this in your back pocket for a second.
Have lunch in Ita Thao
I’m not sure if I fully “got” the aboriginal town of Ita Thao on my first visit to Sun Moon Lake, which makes sense: It was during covid, and while Taiwan wasn’t shut down at that point, it wasn’t operating at full capacity. Later trips have fully illuminated the allure of this lakeside idyll, whether I’m simply walking down the market street, or dining on wild boat meat and black tea soft serve along it.
Enjoy a panorama from Ci’en Pagoda
Whether you plan a Sun Moon Lake itinerary one day in length of stay overnight, you absolutely must climb up to Ci’en Pagoda and enjoy the view from the top, which in my opinion is the best view of Sun Moon Lake without question. Once you finish here, I suggest heading down to nearby Xuangguang Temple, where you can savor what many Taiwanese claim to be their country’s best cha ji dan, or tea eggs.
Stake out a spot for sunset (and maybe sunrise)
Remember how I mentioned that you should consider returning to Wen Wu temple in the afternoon or evening? Well, it’s because the temple’s viewing deck is maybe the best spot at Sun Moon Lake for watching sunset. This might also be the case for sunrise, though unfortunately the temple isn’t open at that time. Moreover, the lake’s surface is often foggy early in the morning, meaning sunrise might or might not even happen.
A Note About the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village
On my last trip to Sun Moon Lake, I noticed a sign I’d previously missed while driving in. FORMOSAN ABORIGINAL CULTURE VILLAGE, it read, and listed a distance approximately 1 km closer to where I was than the lake itself. I let my curiosity get the best of me, thinking that the place would be some kind of open-air museum. While I guess I can’t completely refute that characterization, it’s something different than that as well.
It’s an amusement park, with a variety of rides (though most look to be pretty poorly maintained—I didn’t get on any). There are also a pair of cable cars, the second of which offers amazing views of the lake itself. Most disturbing, however, was the way aboriginal culture was depicted—as some kind of sideshow or game; it wasn’t even clear if the actors themselves were Thao. No matter how many days in Sun Moon Lake you decide to spend, I’m not sure if I can recommend that you go here.
Other FAQ About Visiting Sun Moon Lake
How do I get to Sun Moon Lake?
If you don’t have your own car, the easiest way to reach Sun Moon Lake is via a direct bus from Taichung Main Station; services from Taipei also exist, though they take much longer than is required to get a train to Taichung first. The easiest way to reach Sun Moon Lake, to be sure, is to drive the entire way in your own car.
Can I go on a day trip to Sun Moon Lake from Taipei?
It is theoretically possible to take a day trip to Sun Moon Lake from Taipei. After riding a TR train from Taipei to Taichung, you can get a bus to the lake’s visitor center, where you can rent bikes and ride around its perimeter. However, this would be a very long day; if you’re coming from Taipei, it’s really best to plan on staying the night.
Is Sun Moon Lake worth visiting?
Sun Moon Lake is absolutely worth visiting if you have space in your Taiwan itinerary for. Whether you enjoy views from the cable car or Ci’en Pagoda, explore aboriginal culture and cusine in Ita Thao or simply enjoy a relaxed bike ride, Sun Moon Lake is much more than just a…well, lake.
The Bottom Line
I’ve had the better part of a decade to improve and expand this Sun Moon Lake itinerary, but instead I find I’ve refined and simplified it. As is the case down in Alishan, I find that taking a more precise approach to Taiwan’s sprawling natural areas is the best way to ensure you enjoy them. If you can, I recommend staying overnight at Sun Moon Lake, though this is not necessary. A day trip is not a heavy lift, particularly not if you start your excursion from Taichung, rather than Taipei or especially Kaohsiung. Need personalized help incorporating Sun Moon Lake into your broader Taiwan trip? Commission a custom Taiwan itinerary today!
