Yunlin wasn’t the last place in Taiwan that I’ve never been, but in terms of whole counties, it’s the last one I wanted to visit that I hadn’t yet. Sorry Hsinchu—it’s nothing personal!
To be sure, I was slightly skeptical of how different Yunlin might be from neighboring Changhua or Chiayi counties, two off-the-beaten-path destinations I’d visited (and loved). How could somewhere wedged between two others so tightly have a unique identity?
If you’re on the fence about visiting this part of Taiwan, I hope my Yunlin travel guide will get you off it. I’m personally so, so glad I came!
Where to Stay in Yunlin
I’ll be frank: I don’t have any personal experience in Yunlin hotels (yet), as I have only ever visited the county on a day trip from Taipei. And the reality is that unless you’re very committed to visiting Yunlin, you might not end up needing a place to stay. Still, I’m going to make some recommendations, based on both my favorite destinations in Yunlin country, as well as the sorts of places I like to stay in general.
Rather than staying in Yunlin City, for example, I think it’s a better idea to stay in a tourist destination such as Gukeng, Huwei or Beigang. Each of these hotels is unique (even if none will be winning any awards), be it the out-of-the-way Da-Hu Villa B&B in Gukeng, the utilitarian Huwei Hotel in Huwei or the quirky, surprisingly stylish Saint Art Hotel in Beigang.
Where to Go in Yunlin
Douliu Old Street
The bad news? Douliu Old Street itself is somewhat underwhelming (and the parking meter near it seriously ripped me off!). The good news? If you have your own set of wheels (and, once again, you should), the rural scenery just outside of town more than makes up for any urban disappointment you might feel.
Hebaoshan Trail
This is specifically the case if the second stop on your Yunlin travel guide ends up being Mt. Hebaoshan. Note that when you get here, the trailhead isn’t especially well-marked. The good news is that once you find it, it’ll only take you around 20-30 minutes to reach what is without a doubt the best view in all of Yunlin County.
Gukeng
Continue from Hebaoshan deeper into Gukeng, which is not only the name of a city (where you find a so-called Green Tunnel and a Honey Museum), but is also Yunlin’s agricultural heart. While you can’t really visit one of its coffee farms, you can see pineapples and bananas growing (and, of course, drink in coffee shops).
Huwei
Not to be confused with the Chinese electronics brand Huawei, Huwei is home to the Yunlin Hand Puppet Museum. This is one of my favorite things to do in Yunlin, and not just due to the puppets. Rather, the story behind them—that the art of hand puppetry was inherently subversive, and a major form of resistance to forced Japanization—is inspiring.
Beigang Chaotian Temple
Taiwanese temples, as sad as it is to admit this, can sometimes seem same-y. Not because they’re all exactly the same, mind you, but because they’re all excellent. Thankfully, I say this only to emphasize just how fantastic Beigang Chaotian Temple (which, as you might guess, is located in Beigang) is. It might be my favorite temple in Taiwan!
How to Get Around in Yunlin
As I’ve already alluded to in this post, you really need to rent a car to get around in Yunlin. There are two reasons for this, the first being the minimal public transportation on offer within the county. The second reason? If you plan to rent a car, then you can quickly whisk yourself down here via the Taiwan HSR, rather than having to depend upon local trains (and then even slower local transport from there).
Indeed, having your own set of wheels means (at least for your first trip here) that the question of how many days in Yunlin you should spend is irrelevant. While you might not come for a very long day trip from Taipei like I did—it’s arguably more humane to spend at least one night somewhere in Yunlin—you simply don’t “need” to take a multi-day trip, even if you ultimately end up wanting to do so.
Other FAQ About Visiting Yunlin
What to do in Yunlin?
Yunlin has a surprisingly large number of things to do, considering how rural it is. While some travelers will stick to urban attractions such as Beigang Chaotian Temple and the Huwei Hand Puppetry Museum, others will head to agrarian Gukeng and traipse amid fruit farms and drink fresh-grown coffee in charming cafes.
Is Yunlin a city?
Yunlin is a city, and the seat of the county of the same name. At the same time, most travelers bound for Yunlin County won’t actually find much of interest in Yunlin City. Instead, they’d be better served by heading east to Douliu and Gukeng, or southwestward to Huwei and Beigang.
Is Yunlin or Chiayi better?
There’s an argument that Chiayi is a more utilitarian destination than Yunlin, since the former is a gateway to the superlative Alishan region of Taiwan. On the other hand, there’s simply a lot more to do in Yunlin County than there is in Chiayi County.
The Bottom Line
I hope you’ve found my Yunlin travel guide helpful. And that you keep in mind a sobering reality: Yunlin has something for everybody, but it is not for everybody. Frankly, unless you have a lot of time to spare and are comfortable missing certain destinations in order to get by solely using public transportation, you will need to rent a car or motorbike. Likewise, much of Yunlin’s charm is subtle and understated, and might evade travelers who haven’t spent a significant amount of exploring the rest of Taiwan. If you’re still considering ticking Yunlin off your bucket list, I do hope you’ll consider hiring me to plan your trip.
