Lukang Love Affair

Lukang Love Affair

I didn’t expect a lot from Lukang, for two main reasons. First, before “old streets” (老街 or lao jie in Chinese) are a dime a dozen in Taiwan. Most of them are nothing to write home about, with the possible expect of Jiufen’s.

Secondly, if I’m frank, my brief exploration of nearby Changhua had left me so depleted, my brain wasn’t working properly. I don’t say this to be dramatic: I honestly thought I would pass out from heat stroke, even though I’ve lived in some of the hottest places in the world for more than a decade.

The good news? Lukang Old Street impressed me, even if I didn’t get to go as hard exploring it as I would’ve done had it been cooler. The better news? Unless you’re dumb enough to visit at the end of June, you’ll almost certainly have more pleasant weather.

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Why I Finally Visited Lukang

Like you, Lukang Old Street was never really on my Taiwan bucket list. In fact, I only decided to come here when I realized that my other desired trip for the day (to rural Yunlin County) probably wasn’t feasible, given other constraints that I was dealing with. I was already planning to be in Changhua, from which Lukang is sort of a day-trip-within-a-day-trip.

Indeed, while I like Lu-kang lao-jie a lot, I’m not sure I’d say that it’s worth a day trip from Taipei all on its own. I think it needs a trek up to Changhua’s Buddha in order to justify the time and expenditure. The value proposition is a bit better from Taichung, but then you’re so close to Changhua anyway that it seems silly not to step there on your way there or back.

How to Occupy Your Time Along Lukang Old Street

People-watch

 

Lukang Old Street, like most pedestrian areas in Taiwan, is a great opportunity to observe “real” Taiwanese culture—in other words, to people-watch. One of my favorite things about coming here? There simply aren’t a lot of other Westerners, giving the whole thing a more authentic feel.

Visit a temple (or five)

 

Whether you visit the famous Lukang Mazu Temple or one of the most unsung exemplars along the street (such as Xinzu Temple, which is just as spectacular in my opinion), this is another way to make the most of your trip to the Lukang Old Street. The architecture is truly stunning!

Eat deep-fried seafood

 

Taiwan’s old streets and night markets are all famous for food, and Lukang’s is no different. Here, however, grazing on various snacks is especially easy. That’s because bite-sized deep-fried seafood is the star of the show. I like the shrimp and mud crabs, but there are close to a dozen different options, depending upon which stand you visit.

Enter a world of glass

 

While the so-called Glass Temple (officially Husheng Temple) doesn’t have a deep backstory, it’s a joy to look at and walk through. This is to say nothing of all the discovery on offer within the adjacent Taiwan Glass Gallery, which almost gives off teamLab vibes in some places.

Don’t forget about Changhua

 

Changhua is probably the most underrated destination in Taiwan, or at least the one with the fewest foreign visitors. Whether or not it’s underrated, if we’re fair, is far more of a subjective question. Still, even if you go only to visit the Buddha at Mt. Bagua, it’s on the way to Lukang—isn’t that enough to say it’s worthwhile?

How to Get to Lukang Old Street

Getting to Lukang is relatively easy, whether you begin in Taipei or much closer in Taichung. If you come from Taipei, you’ll first need to get from there to Taichung. The fastest way here is via Taiwan HSR to HSR Taichung Station, though of course if you don’t mind a much longer journey time, you can ride a normal or express TRA train from Taipei Main Station to Taichung Main Station.

From here, you have a couple of options. If you don’t plan to stop in Changhua first, then you can take the tourist bus that departs HSR Taichung Station for Lukang Old Street once per hour. If you’re already in Changhua, meanwhile, you can simply catch the same bus at one of the stops within the city—use Google Maps to find the nearest stop by entering “Lukang Old Street” as your destination.

Other FAQ About Lukang Old Street

Where is Lukang Old Street?

Lukang Old Street is in Changhua County, about 30 minutes by bus from TRA Changhua Station. Alternatively, a more direct way to reach the street from Taipei is simply to ride a bus from HSR Taichung Station, and bypass Changhua City entirely (unless you want to explore it—I obviously recommend that you do).

Is Lukang Old Street worth visiting?

While it’s no Jiufen, Lukang Old Street is an enjoyable place to visit if you’ve already exhausted all the “basic” day trips from Taipei, or alternatively if you’re in Taichung and are looking for a unique excursion. It’s a nice place to explore with great fried seafood, though I wouldn’t say it’s in my top tier of Taiwan destinations.

Where is Taiwan’s Glass Temple?

Taiwan’s Glass Temple is located in Lukang, about 20 minutes by bus from the more famous Lukang Old Street. It’s connected to a commercial glass factory, which purpose-built it as a tourist attraction, rather than having any spiritual or historical significance.

The Bottom Line

Whether in conjunction with a day trip to Changhua, or as an à la carte excursion from Taichung, Lukang Old Street punches above its weight. I’d probably come for the fried seafood alone, though the ambiance and atmosphere (and the temples—I especially love the Mazu one) are more than worth the effort of getting here. The “glass temple” is too, although I probably wouldn’t take the additional bus ride again unless I was prepared to stay until nightfall, and watch it light up. Whether or not you eventually end up visiting Lukang, I do hope you’ll consider hiring me to plan your trip to Taiwan.

 

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