A Change of Pace in Changhua

A Change of Pace in Changhua

I most recently left Taiwan on a flight departing minutes before midnight, which meant I had to occupy the entirety of the day. I chose nostalgia: Remote work (and a cocktail) at my favorite cafe in Taipei from when I lived there, and a walk through my old neighborhood.

The sky, it seemed, was just as melancholy as me: The raindrops were heavy and numerous; each dented my umbrella like a child jumping on a trampoline. As I traipsed slowly down my former street between the two avenues at either end of it, I didn’t see a single other soul, adding to the surreal feel of the expedition.

It was a world away from the searing heat that had scorched me on my day trip to Changhua, just 24 hours before. I almost felt a chill, which I couldn’t have imagined then, even in the shadow the city’s giant Buddha.

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How to Get to Changhua

Getting from Taipei to Changhua is pretty straightforward. The first thing you’ll need to do is get to Taichung, which is quickest if you take the Taiwan HSR, ideally with a Taiwan Rail Pass. This will take you just over an hour; from here, follow the signs to TRA Xinwuri Station, where frequent local trains will take you to Changhua Station. There are some instructions required past this point, but I’ll share those later.

Unlike some destinations in Taiwan, Changhua isn’t a place where renting a car would be beneficial. It’s highly urbanized, and while there is one relatively long bus ride involved in this day trip (again, I’ll share details of that later), it doesn’t justify the expense and hassle of renting a car. The only way I’d recommend you drive is if you already have your own set of wheels.

My Favorite Things to Do in Changhua

Scale the Big Buddha

 

Before I visited the Buddha of Mt. Bagua in Changhua, I heard it compared to the one on Lantau Island in Hong Kong. While it does indeed resemble that particular statue, there are some key differences. Namely, that you need to walk to this one—there is no cable car leading up to the top!

Continue onward to Lukang

 

Ironically, the second stop of this Changhua itinerary is to leave Changhua behind. Well, at least Changhua-proper. Instead you’ll be headed to Lukang, a town (which is technically in Changhua county), but is smaller and closer to the sea than Changhua City.

Explore the Old Street

 

As I wrote about in another recent post, Lukang Old Street is definitely worth visiting. It isn’t really on par with Jiufen Old Street, but it’s nonetheless a charming affair, not to mention an authentic one. (Case in point: I didn’t see a single other Western face the whole time I was there.)

(And eat your way along it)

 

Eating is an essential part of any Changhua day trip, as it would be no matter where in Taiwan you planned to go. Although there are a few specialties throughout Changhua County, my favorite option is to feast on fried seafood along the lao jie, namely shrimp and tiny mud crabs.

End the day on a glassy note

 

The bad news? There isn’t some historical or spiritual reason for the existing of Husheng Temple, also known as the Glass Temple, which sits on the outskirts of Lukang close to the ocean. The good news? The Taiwan Glass Gallery that built it is an interesting destination in its own right.

Should You Stay Overnight in Changhua?

At some point in the future, I might spend the night in Changhua. I certainly think there’s enough to discover—or, at minimum, enough interesting streets to get lost down—that it could be worth spending a full 24 hours here. Beyond this, I’d love to be able to photograph some places in Changhua at night and in the early morning, in particular the Glass Temple.

On the other hand, as you might imagine, Changhua hotels leave something to be desired. As a result, a compromise may be spending the night in Taichung. Hotels such as Hotel East Taichung near Taichung Main Station and Hotel Hesper near Taichung HSR Station are especially attractive, since they offer essentially direct access to Changhua.

Other FAQ About Visiting Changhua

Is Changhua worth visiting?

Changhua is definitely worth visiting, at least if you have a clear idea of what to get up to. Among other things, the Changhua area is home to a massive Buddha image, as well as one of Taiwan’s most satisfying old streets. On the other hand, aimlessly wandering here might not be the best strategy.

How many days do you need in Changhua?

Most travelers see Changhua on a day trip from Taipei or Taichung—and in most cases, I think this is sufficient. The only reason I’d recommend staying overnight is if you’ve already been on a day trip, and have a specific reason for wanting to dig deeper.

How do I get from Taipei to Changhua?

There are a few ways to get from Taipei to Changhua. The easiest and most direct way is to ride the Taiwan HSR from Taipei to Taichung, then connect to a local train at Xinwuri Station. Tourist buses also depart several times per day from Taichung HSR Station to Changhua and Lukang.

The Bottom Line

Is Changhua worth visiting? Yes, although I hope you get a slightly less hot day than I did. I enjoyed my time, don’t get me wrong! However, I think if I’d been able to worry a little less about heat stroke, I would’ve enjoyed exploring the city a bit more—I would’ve been able to explore the city to a greater extent! If you do visit Changhua on a day trip, consider coming from Taichung rather than Taipei, to maximize the amount of time you’ll have. Another way to optimize enjoyment of your trip to Taiwan? Commission a custom Taiwan itinerary, and let me sweat all the details for you!

 

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