I arrived on Beigan, the northernmost of the two main Matsu islands, feeling smug. “I’ve been to all the others,” I bragged to the young man who picked me up at the airport, referring to the rest of Taiwan’s outlying islands.
He poured cold water on me, in two ways. First, he remained me that I had not yet been to Xiaoliuqiu, which sits off Kaohsiung; he also noted that I was unlikely to see Beigan’s “blue tears” (which had inspired my trip here in the first place) based on trends he’d been observing.
In spite of this, my time exploring these islands proved incredibly fulfilling, even if I’ll eventually have to go back to see the tears. Below, I’ll compare Beigan vs Nangan, and help you decide which will ultimately end up suiting your travel style better.
Why I (Finally) Visited the Matsu Islands
On one hand, whether Beigan or Nangan, the Matsu Islands were a gaping hole in my Taiwan travel map. Not the most gaping one (hi again, Xiaoliuqiu!), but definitely a big fish. At the same time, I can’t lie: My decision to tick them off my bucket list at the time I first did (June 2025) was because I thought doing so would allow me to see Beigan’s famous blue tears. That obviously didn’t happen (at least not to the extent it should’ve done)!
It’s not a coincidence, to be sure, that I decided to visit Lanyu and Lyudao before Matsu. Frankly, the former islands are (at least on the surface) more exciting and appealing than the latter ones—which, apart from the tears, have few obvious draws. Well, apart from wanting to visit them out of a sense of completion, which is totally valid if you find yourself in the same position now that I did months ago.
Ways to Compare Beigan with Nangan
Things to do
As I mentioned earlier, what really drew me to Beigan was the Blue Tears, though I also found various coastal villages (namely, Qiaozi and Qinbi) to be picturesque and charming. In Nangan, by contrast, the most obvious attraction is a statue of the islands’ namesake Mazu deity (more commonly known as Guanyin), though I also enjoyed the Matsu Folklore Culture Museum and Beihai Tunnel.
Best time to visit
On one level, both Beigan and Nangan are evergreen destinations. Like the rest of Taiwan, they can be rainy basically any day of the year, but will also probably have at least a couple of hours of sunshine when you visit; they don’t get too cold, even in winter. On the other hand—and I can’t emphasize this enough—you must visit during the month of April if you want to see Beigan’s Blue Tears at their most impressive.
Food
As is the case with Taiwanese food in general, food in the Matsu Islands is a mixed picture. Fresh seafood is obviously amazing, particularly if you enjoy mussels and goose barnacles as I did in Beigan: Literally harvested fresh from the sea moments before I ate them. On the other hand, while the “oyster pie” at Jieshou Shizi Market on Nangan was visually stunning, its flavor left a lot to be desired.
Getting there and around
In this category, your M.O. will be the same whether you visit Nangan or Beigan (or both): You need to fly in from Taipei’s Songshan Airport (well, assuming your flight doesn’t get canceled), then rent a car or motorbike. If you want to travel between the islands, meanwhile, it’s just 20-30 minutes by one of the frequent local ferries that departs. Simple, but not easy if you’re opposed to driving or are unable to drive.
Vibe
I will be honest that on this question, my host in Beigan influenced my opinion: He was so hospitable, and his family’s kindness was so central to my experience of the island, that I can’t really separate it out. At the same time, Nangan felt more developed (and therefore, more intrinsically welcoming), so there’s an argument that it’s preferable in this regard.
How Many Days Do You Need in the Matsu Islands?
The Matsu Islands are tiny. While their topography means it’s not realistic to explore them on foot, you can go all the way around either island by car or motorbike in less than an hour, literally. I remember arriving to Beigan with a full list of things to do around mid-day, and feeling stressed because I had already completed all of them before sunset. Nangan is not much more time-sucking.
This is part of why, in some sense, the comparison of Nangan vs Beigan is a fool’s errand—well, at least if you’re trying to choose between the islands. You can fly to Beigan one day, explore in the afternoon and the next morning and take a ferry over to Nangan around lunchtime on day two. Spend afternoon two and morning three exploring Nangan, and fly back to Taipei on afternoon three. In other words, all your really need is 48 full hours.
Other FAQ About Visiting Nangan and Beigan
Is Matsu worth visiting?
The Matsu islands are definitely worth visiting. On the other hand, they’re probably the most understated of Taiwan’s offshore islands, with a rugged landscape, a small list of “attractions” and very few tourists in general. Make sure to set proper expectations to maximize your chances of enjoying the trip.
Is Matsu Taiwan or China?
The Matsu islands are located in Lienchiang County, Taiwan, and are under the control of the Republic of China, i.e. Taiwan. Geographically speaking, however, the islands are much closer to the Chinese mainland than they are to Taiwan, and to the Chinese city of Fuzhou than to the Taiwanese capital Taipei.
How do I get to Matsu island from Taipei?
For most travelers, the only practical way to reach Matsu from Taipei is to fly from Taipei’s Songshan Airport (TSA) to either Beigan (MFK) or Nangan (LZN) airports, via regional carriers UNI Air or Mandarin Airlines. I recommend buying your tickets at least a month in advance; flights fill up fast, mostly with local residents.
The Bottom Line
On one hand, there’s an argument to be made that you shouldn’t bother comparing Beigan vs Nangan. A 20-minute ferry journey separates them; if you’re going to go to the trouble of visiting one, you’d might as well see the other as well—traveling from one to the other is not an massive ordeal on the scale of the trek between Lanyu and Lyudao. On the other hand, even if you ultimately end up visiting both of these islands, I think there’s value in being able to set realistic expectations for what will await you on each. Need personalized help integrating the Matsu Islands into your trip? Consider hiring me to plan it!
